A Real Peach

The earliest English settlers who landed in Virginia may have been surprised to find the familiar downy peach flourishing in their new home and a staple of the Indigenous diet.

Spanish explorers had carried peach seeds from Europe to Mexico and Florida in the 16th century, and peaches thrived throughout the Americas. A member of the rose family, the peach is thought to have been domesticated in China. From there it made its way along the Silk Road to Rome in the 1st century by way of Persia and Armenia.

Offering hospitable conditions, many Virginia gardens — from modest to grand — included peach trees that fed both people and hogs. Virginia Gazettes from 1736 to 1780 included 380 advertisements for fruit trees, 244 of which mentioned peaches.

John Custis included peach trees in his extensive garden, importing varieties from England through his correspondence with naturalist Peter Collinson. Records indicate that between 1736 and 1743 Custis cultivated three English varieties:
Catherine, nutmeg and double blossom. It is possible that Custis received, in addition to seeds, scion stock from England since techniques for grafting tender shoots onto established rootstocks had been well established.

A high-status garden such as Custis’ would have used the espalier method, a practice for training fruit trees to grow horizontally against a fence that maximizes growing space while adding aesthetic organization to the garden.

A ripe, nectar-filled fruit eaten out of hand was and is a long-awaited summer joy. But keep in mind that ripe peaches bruise easily and will last only a few days even if refrigerated. Eighteenth-century kitchens had many methods for preserving peaches, including jams, pickling with mustard, drying sugared slices or simply boiling in simple syrup and then spiking with brandy. In addition, using peaches and their pits to flavor spirits has a long history.

Abbey Shoaf, journeyman supervisor for Historic Foodways, shared a peach recipe that can be prepared with ripe peaches or canned fruit in the offseason. This recipe also works well with other seasonal fruits such as apples, oranges and strawberries.

Williamsburg Inn Executive Chef Julianne Gutierrez decided to tread the fine line between sweet and savory in a refreshing chilled soup she developed to showcase the versatility of the summer treat. As with the fritters, this recipe can be made year-round by taking advantage of a preservation technology unavailable in the 18th century — frozen fruit.

Harder to find, white-fleshed peaches are the darling of many chefs, but Chef Gutierrez prefers the more common yellow-fleshed cultivars, which she finds sweeter. She also suggests seeking out the distinctive flattened variety known as donut peaches. 

Peach Fritters

Historic Foodways
Adapted from The French Family Cook by Joseph Menon (London, 1793), originally published as La Cuisinière Bourgeoise (Paris, 1746)
Serves 4-6

Ingredients

• 3–4 ripe peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced (or one 30-ounce can peaches, drained)
• brandy or sherry for soaking (optional)
• 2 cups all-purpose flour, divided
• 2 eggs
• 1 cup white wine
• 1/4–1/2 cup granulated sugar
• spices (e.g., cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, ginger) to taste
• lard or canola oil for frying
• granulated or confectioners’ sugar (optional)

Instructions

1. In a medium bowl, soak the peach slices in brandy or sherry for 20–30 minutes, if using. Remove the peach slices from the liquid and pat dry on paper towels.
2. Spread 3/4 cup flour onto a dinner plate and dredge the peach slices in the flour. Let them rest in the flour while making the batter.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, white wine, sugar to taste and spices. Add the remaining flour to the wine mixture by spoonfuls, mixing lightly after each addition, until the batter becomes the texture of a thick pancake batter. Do not overmix.
4. In a sauté pan over high heat, heat an inch of lard or oil until a bit of batter dropped into it bubbles and crackles. Reduce the heat to medium.
5. Using tongs or a fork, drop or dip the floured peach slices one by one into the batter, coating fully, and then carefully place in the hot oil. Do not crowd the pan. Fry, flipping once, until crisp and golden brown, 2–3 minutes per side.
6. Remove the fried slices using a slotted spoon or strainer ladle and drain on paper towels.
7. Allow the fritters to rest briefly;
   if desired, sprinkle sugar over fritters while still warm and serve.

Chilled Peach Soup

Williamsburg Inn
Serves 6

Ingredients

• 4 cups peeled and chopped
  ripe peaches (frozen peaches
  can be substituted)
• ½ cup chopped English cucumber
• ½ cup dried apricots
  (rehydrated briefly with hot water and squeezed dry)
• 1 13.5-ounce can coconut milk
• 3 sprigs thyme, stripped
• 3 leaves mint
• ½ cup white balsamic vinegar
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

For garnish

• finely diced cucumber
• candied ginger
• goat cheese crumbles

Instructions

1. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and allow to marinate in
   the refrigerator for about 2 hours.
2. Transfer to a blender or food
   processor and blend until smooth.
3. Transfer to a storage container and chill thoroughly (overnight if possible).
4. Serve chilled garnished with
   diced cucumber, candied ginger
   and crumbled goat cheese.
   

Angela Taormina is a freelance editor living in Norge, Virginia.